Replacing Internal Batteries

ECO sensors powered with internal batteries can either run directly from the internal batteries or can operate from power supplied by an external DC power supply (7–15 volts). Internal-to-external source conversion is facilitated by a jumper plug that plugs into the unit's bulkhead connector. When inserted, the plug forms a connection from the battery to the electronics power supply. By removing the plug, the instrument can be powered and communicate via a test or deployment cable. Setup conditions, instrument checkout, real-time operation, and data downloading are thus all achieved identically to the methods prescribed for non-battery units.

WARNING!
Changing the batteries will require opening the pressure housing of the ECO sensor. Only people qualified to service underwater oceanographic instrumentation should perform this procedure. If this procedure is performed improperly, it could result in catastrophic instrument failure due to flooding or in personal injury or death due to abnormal internal pressure as a result of flooding.

WET Labs Inc. disclaims all product liability from the use or servicing of this equipment. WET Labs Inc. has no way of controlling the use of this equipment or of choosing qualified personnel to operate it, and therefore cannot take steps to comply with laws pertaining to product liability, including laws that impose a duty to warn the user of any dangers involved with the operation and maintenance of this equipment. Therefore, acceptance of this equipment by the customer shall be conclusively deemed to include a covenant by the customer to defend and hold WET Labs Inc. harmless from all product liability claims arising from the use and servicing of this equipment. Flooded instruments will be covered by WET Labs Inc. warranties at the discretion of WET Labs, Inc.

Make sure the instrument is thoroughly dry.
Remove the dummy plugs.
With connector end flange pointed downwards away from face, release seal from vent plug.
Remove moisture from vent plug area.

Using needle nose pliers, remove filament from end flange.

Lift flange from pressure housing until seal is broken. The jacking screws can be used to “push” the flange from the pressure housing and then can be removed or left in the end flange.


Remove any excess moisture from flange-to-pressure housing-seal area.

Work end flange out of pressure housing and remove any residual moisture.

The battery pack is connected to the processor boards by a six-pin Molex connector: do NOT pull too hard or far on the battery pack or it will come unplugged and the unit will need to be returned to WET Labs for repair.

Remove the black plastic protectors from the ends of the long screws securing the batteries.

Loosen and remove the screws using a 3/16-in slotted driver.

Replace the batteries.

Re-install the screws:
Align the groove in each of the plates so the six-wire extension bundle will fit in it along its length.

Be careful not to cross-thread into the bottom end plate nor to over-tighten the screws. If they are too tight, the fiber washers that act as separators between the batteries will flex.

Make sure there are equal amounts of screw threads protruding from the bottom end plate when they are secure. This will ensure the pack is straight and will fit into the pressure housing with no difficult

Re-install the black plastic protective covers on the ends of the screws.

Remove and check the pressure housing O-ring for nicks or tears. Replace if necessary. Before re-installing, apply a light coat of vacuum grease on the O-ring.

Carefully replace the battery pack in the pressure housing. Place the neoprene insulator on the battery assembly and lay the white cord on the top.

Plug in the two-pin, then the six-pin Molex connectors. Sensor operation can now be tested if desired.

Align the hole in the end flange (NOT the jack screw holes) with the white dowel pin. While coiling the six wire bundle and making sure none are pinched between the end flange and the pressure housing, position the flange on the housing. Leave space to re-insert the gray foam spacer, making sure the cut-out accommodates the vent plug screw.

Push the end flange all the way on to the pressure housing, making sure no wires are pinched. Be sure the vent plug does not pop up. If it does, you'll need to re-position the foam spacer.

Re-insert the monofilament.

View battery recycling locations

Checking Vent Plug
If there is fouling on the vent plug, it should be cleaned and the two 010 O-rings replaced. Otherwise, this mechanism should be maintenance-free.

1. Pull vent plug out about half way; hold plug while unscrewing the truss screw. When screw is removed, pull vent plug from end flange.
2. “Pinch” bottom O-ring around vent plug to form a small gap you can work a toothpick into. Use the toothpick to help roll the bottom O-ring off the plug.
3. Perform the same procedure with the top O-ring.
4. Clean the vent plug and vent plug hole using a dry lint-free tissue or cotton swab.
5. Lightly coat two undamaged or new O-rings with silicon grease. Install the top O-ring (nearest to large end of plug) first, then the bottom one.
6. Insert vent plug into its hole in the end flange and hold it while inserting the truss screw. Rotate the vent plug to begin tightening the screw. Finish tightening using a screwdriver, being careful not to overtighten truss screw.